Shut Your Carabiner Gates

Saw this picture posted on a climbing subreddit by biotech9. He assured us the climber at the top was cow-tied in before the picture was taken – but man, check out those open gates on her carabiners. One false move and the rope can slide right out of there.

One thought on “Shut Your Carabiner Gates

  1. This is not a big issue. Sure, it’s not ideal, but in this situation there’s no problem.

    Assuming the open gated quickdraw is at the first bolt, as soon as the climber has clipped at the second draw, the safety issue of the first biner is greatly lessened. In the picture, where the climber is, the first draw is providing no safety and is only adding friction to the system.

    This happens all the time, you climb, you clip a draw, you climb, friction of the rope grabs biner, pulls it into a place you didn’t intend. Maybe if she had used longer dogbones on her quickdraws this would have eliminated the problem. maybe if she’d clipped the draw to the bolt the other way, but then you’d be complaining about the spine of the biner being against the edge of the rock.

    Whatever happened, it wasn’t that the climber left the gate on her biner open, the biner flipped around and up on the rock, pressing the gate against the rock, causing the gate to open. This happened well after she passed the second bolt, so as long as the bolts are good, there is no issue here.

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